2011.06.28 - 07.02
This is the second blog (and the last) which tells you about our 2011 visit to Malawi as part of our MozMalZimZam trip.
The interactive map shows you the area where we explored. We lived at FISH EAGLE BAY on the coast of LAKE MALAWI just below the name Nkhotakota on the map (where the land juts into the lake).
View Larger Map
This map is static and has our route clearly marked on it.
Although it had been an easy day's travelling, we were pleased to see the turn-off sign to Fish Eagle Bay.
This was the dust road we followed.
We had met the owners of Fish Eagle Bay Lodge (Francois and Anchen) in South Africa and knew that we were going to enjoy our stay with them. This lovely driveway told us that they really groom their property beautifully.
The staff (Stanley, Stuart and Camille) were waiting for us as Francois and Anchen were to arrive later. We pitched our tent on the shore of Lake Malawi! There was a patch of lawn, a lapa and an enormous Tangerine tree for shade - everything was perfect!
The group used the lapa for meals but we had breakfast in the lodge. Stanley makes a good omelet!
Fltr: Mrad, Renate, Eugene, Lalie, Wieske, Andy (how easily things can change!)
The beach invited us for walks and allowed Mrad to try out the "mokoro" lying on the beach. We hadn't realised that the top was so narrow!
We bought fish from the local fishermen who actually used similar vessels to monitor their catch. Here Mrad's checking out the fish to see whether it's worthwhile.
See the black on the beach? Manganese, not oil.
They even cleaned the "inchini" (Butterfish) for us. It is delicious roasted over the fire.
When you watch the video, also listen to the waves on the shore of Lake Malawi, and look at the colours of the sand: black "sand" and red "sand" (more like heavy molecules) washed over the white sand which adorns the beaches.
Some of the local children also enjoyed the beach - or was it actually bath time?
We stayed at Fish Eagle Bay for several nights. This gave us a chance to see several sunrises. Mrad and Renate would take an early morning walk and I would watch them from the tent.
This is just like Bali! We spent the days alternately lazing around and having tea (mug's broken, dish will do!!)
or exploring the surrounds. Here cashew nuts are growing on the tree.
A paddy of the famous aromatic rice for which the Nkhotakota area is known.
On our travels we passed this road block.
It was amazing to see the local ladies carry the harvested thatching grass back to their village for the Africa style yearly home maintenance.
We spent a day to re-discover NKHOTAKOTA WILDLIFE RESERVE where we had camped two years ago.
Here's the map from Fish Eagle Bay to the reserve where we visited Bua River Lodge.
We turned off at this new sign onto a small dust road.
The road passed through various small villages and once in the forest, we often drove under a canopy of trees.
The entrance fee to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve for 2 persons and a vehicle was MKw 1800, the compulsory Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve guide MKw1500, compulsory Bua River Camp Forest Walk guide MKw 1500. Was the trip going to be worthwhile?
The effective road sign bode well.
We turned towards the camp site as we had camped close to the deck previously.
On our previous visit, John Dickenson had told us about the wonderful plans he had for Bua River Camp. This time he was seriously ill with malaria, but his plans had all materialised: a wonderful innovative deck overlooking the Bua River
and tented "rooms' hidden on islands next to the river - a dream come true!
Each tent has a private deck for a tete-a- te with the local elephants! And they really do wander through the camp from time to time!
The hammock proves to be irresistible, to Mrad and
to Riette (Andy & Wieske's daughter).
If you want to visit magical Bua River Lodge, contact John on +265995476887 or +265888203986. We will be back too!
We met up with our guides.
They took us on the river walk: beautiful trees, a log bridge across a small tributary, interesting lichens/ferns in some trees, a wonderful waterfall, even crocodiles!
We walked the circle route with Juma, an erstwhile poacher.
He told us stories of the "Chisake" falls. This word (which I probably have spelled wrongly) means "bags". Why does this little waterfall have this name? In 1986 he witnessed more than 10,000 of the fish which migrate up the BUA RIVER from Lake Malawi, being caught at the waterfall. The fish had to "fly"up the waterfall in order to spawn upstream in the Bua River - this made them easy targets for the local population. Today this phenomenon is only a memory. The fish are gone and so have the poachers as the waterfall is within a reserve.
Guess what Mrad and Juma are looking at? Crocodiles - only their eyebrows are above the water.
The light lunch which Bua River Camp served us was delightfully prepared and presented. All the fees had been well worth while!
On another day, the owners of Fish Eagle Bay Lodge took us to their private "forest" adjacent to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. More beautiful trees and raffia palms.
A place within easy reach along the beach or a shortish drive by car, is Nkhotakota Pottery. There's also a lovely restaurant overlooking the lake and the pottery is a good buy as it seems to be very chip resistant (we bought two bowls two years ago and they're still perfect in spite of daily use.)
Our evenings were mostly spent in the 'lapa' on the beach: talking, cooking and getting to know each other.Manioca / Madumbi in preparation for .... Chips!
And the obligatory group photo!
On 2 July we reluctantly left Fish Eagle Bay Lodge to travel to Zambia. Our five nights' camping cost us +-R550.
The map shows where our day's travel lead us.
We took the road which leads from the village Nkhotakota to Kasunga through Nkhotakota Forest Reserve. As this road is public, we merely passed through a boom.
The road wound through magnificent country clad in forest.
The new road bypassed the old bridges.
And judging by the road construction machinery and trucks next to the road, this dirt road would soon be upgraded.
Kasunga - stop! Shops!!!
Once through the reserve, we followed the M1 and then the M18 towards the border.
Much to our amusement, the Mchinji border post had been moved to a new venue further along the road - this is the old building.
Our evenings were mostly spent in the 'lapa' on the beach: talking, cooking and getting to know each other.
Much to our amusement, the Mchinji border post had been moved to a new venue further along the road - this is the old building.
